Scanning and printing are both also very easy, with the added luxury of a Red safelight in the darkroom if you’re working with black and white papers! After processing, you can do a huge number of things to help prolong their already long life. If you keep them in the dark and in the fridge before shooting them, you’ll find they last for years. One last point about these films is that they’re very stable. What’s important is consistency! Make sure that there isn’t too much difference in temperature between each step and you’ll be doing fine! Make sure it’s somewhere around the recommended temperature and you’ll be fine. This process requires a degree of temperature control, but from my own experience, I’d say it’s very flexible. After this, you give it a rinse and hang it up to dry! This simply removes any of the unexposed silver crystals, to stop them yellowing and damaging the negative. Once your stop is done, you then throw in a ‘Fixer’ chemical. After development, you have to ‘Stop’ the process, this can either be done with a special stop bath or with some water (I use the latter). The developer reacts with the exposed silver crystals on the film and creates the image you’ll eventually see on the negative. If you can get hold of a few different developers, run a few experiments and see which ones give you the best results. This isn’t essential though, as Ilford films will work perfectly well with another developer such as Kodak’s T-Max, and you’ll still get stunning results. As a general rule, I try and match the film and developer brands, for example, I shoot a lot of Ilford film, and so I use the Ilfotec LC-29 developer. There are lots of different types of developer for B&W film out there, and they’re all easily available at a reasonable price. The process is also incredibly simple, so simple you can do it at home – and lots of people do! After the film has been exposed, you load it onto a spool and put it into a tank, then throw in your developer. One of the nice things about Silver Gelatin films for B&W work is that they’re doing what they were designed to do, and they do a very good job at it. This mix of Silver and Gelatin is then painted onto the film back, which in most cases is made out of a material resembling plastic, although it can be anything. The ‘Traditional’ Black and White films you see are referred to as Silver Gelatin, the reason for this is fairly simple They’re made of tiny crystals of silver salts suspended in Gelatin. Once received, your order will be sent back to your home address within 21 days.So, you want to shoot some Black and White, but you’re not sure which type of film you should go for, ‘Traditional’ or C-41? Let’s have a look at the details of both, and see if we can make up our minds. THEREFORE, PLEASE ENSURE THAT YOU PAY FOR THE CORRECT POSTAGE BY TAKING YOUR ITEM TO A POST OFFICE OR USE A COURIER.ĥ. IF YOU UNDERPAY POSTAGE YOUR ITEM WILL NOT REACH US AND WILL BE RETURNED TO YOU BY THE POST OFFICE. We strongly recommend that you use a tracked service. The Old Hall Industrial Estate, Bromborough, CH62 3QD Print off your order confirmation email and then put your films into a sturdy envelope and post using a tracked service and correct postage to: Alternatively, film processing is also available in-store and our colleagues will be happy to help if you visit your nearest shop in-person.Ĥ. During checkout select "Home Delivery" - this postal service is not available for click and collect in-store. If you want prints with your order then please click here.Ģ. Unfortunately, we are currently unable to offer a cloud service for your images but hope to introduce this in the future. With this service we process your films and then do not print your photos - we scan them and send you the images on your chosen digital format CD. IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS - HOW TO ORDER FILM PROCESSING TO CD ONLINE
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